LOS BRUJOS

Hacienda Bárbara is the Panamanian side of the Rogers family, named for Barbara Rogers, and the farming is run by Hunter Tedman, who has served twice as president of the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama and farms his own Black Moon nearby. They hold three properties in Chiriquí and process everything at their own mill, the Beneficio El Bajareque, in Boquete. The land went organic more than a decade ago and they are moving it toward regenerative practice now, with roughly half of it left standing as forest for the shade and for the bajareque mist to settle into. Los Brujos is the newest of the three, a sheltered pocket of forest on the southern flank of Barú above Potrerillos, and by their own account the shelter is what makes it taste unlike anything else they farm.

Pacamara · Arabica

Distinctive high quality potential with fruit, floral, herbal, and complex notes in elite lots.

The natural process is the oldest way of preparing coffee, dating back to the earliest days of the crop in Ethiopia and Yemen. The whole cherry is dried intact, with the skin, pulp, and sticky mucilage all left on the bean, so as the fruit slowly dries it feeds its sugars and aromas straight into the seed. Getting it right takes patience and constant attention, as the cherries have to be turned regularly on raised beds over many days to dry evenly and avoid faults. Done well, the natural process gives coffees their heavy body, deep berry and jam fruit, and big, wine like sweetness.